When you think of Vancouver’s Granville Entertainment District, great dining doesn’t necessarily come to mind. Sure you can grab a decent burger and there’s plenty of wing deals and lots of booze, but until recently I didn’t head to the strip looking for a true quality meal. So what changed? I discovered Sidecar at 1163 Granville Street were Chef Jason Zimmer has brought unique twists to a variety of familiar and not so familiar dishes.

Sidecar is owned by veteran club and restaurant owners Dave Kershaw and Chris Jackson, who also own the  Manchester Pub on Broadway and the Cabana Lounge . The drive behind Cabana and Sidecar was to introduce later night venues for those over 30.  Chef Zimmer’s experience includes culinary stints on Vancouver Island working at a number of restaurants, hotels and clubs. He’s created a menu that ranges from items such as lamb lollipops, duck confit gnocchi, to perogies with pork and salt and pepper squid. Finishing up with his Granville St. beignets is mandatory as is  sipping on at least one of Jason’s homemade Chimichurri Sidecar Caesars or a classic cocktail, such as the Gin-Gin Mule.

The restaurant opened in December 2013 and features vintage decor, a 30 foot bar, photos of 1920’s gangsters and DJ’s that play a mix of music from  the past 30 years.

After dinner service the room is  transformed and low lounge tables and benches are  brought in and dancing is encouraged. I turn into a pumpkin if I stay out late, so I’ve yet to experience the transformation, but I have happily dined in the earlier hours of the evening when it’s less busy. I have semi-old lady syndrome, so prefer early outings, having already spent far more than my fair share of time in the district over the past few decades.

Arriving rather early on a fortunately less busy evening,  we were able to spend a bit of time chatting to the rustically charming Chef Zimmer while we sampled our way through some of the menu.

First up we had some cripsy squid tossed in Szechuan peppercorns and roasted sea salt with spiced smoked onion aioli. The squid was nicely tender and crisp with just enough zing to set our taste buds mildly on fire.

A dish of tiger shrimp came swimming in a densely flavoured sherry sauce with and had an equally welcome spicy kick. Bread may have been used to soak up the remainder of the sauce.

For mains I highly suggest the Duck Confit with is cured in sea salt and fresh thyme, and served atop a pillowy  gnocchi tossed with wild mushrooms, caramelized onions, sweet peas, butter, duck broth gravy and topped with shaving of Manchego cheese. Pretty close to excellence here, perhaps a little more crunch on the skin would have perfected the dish.

The Lamb Shank is another must. Ideal comfort food here. It’s slowly braised in Merlot wine and lamb stock with fresh herbs and fennel and then served with a perfectly cooked wild mushroom and barley risotto. Love that Zimmer used barley instead of rice. Wish more chefs would venture out to alternative grains.

AND the finale. Granville Street Beignets are made fresh to order, tossed in cinnamon and confectioners’ sugar and served with both a Grand Marnier chocolate sauce and Bulleit Bourbon Butterscotch dip that I had to refrain from licking right out of the serving dish.

Great drinks, wine on tap, craft beer and attentive service rounded out our evening and duck and lamb sandwiches were had the very next day as portions are generous!