Each year Hastings House hosts guest chefs at their excellent country house hotel for an event entitled “Chefs Across the Water”. I’ve attended several of these events in the past, but they’ve never had an entirely vegetarian menu. In general I thought this was a good thing as I do like my meat; however after dining on Cotter’s plates, I’ve definitely changed my view.
This year Hastings House focused on just one event instead of the usual three or more. Proceeds from the event kindly go to Salt Spring Agricultural Alliance’s effort to establish a produce cold storage and production facility. The guest chef this year was Chef Denis Cotter, known for his meat-free cuisine. Cotter is originally from Ireland, and now working on a Canadian restaurant project. He spent considerable time on Salt Spring Island. I am suspecting we may see him establish something on the Island or at least somewhere nearby on the west coast, but perhaps this is just wishful thinking on my part.
Chef Cotter trained at well-known Cranks in London and opened Cafe Patadiso in Ireland in 1993, changing the perception of vegetarianism forever. In 2005 Cotter was voted ‘Chef of the Year’ by Food & Wine Magazine and has also published numerous cookbooks that went on to win awards just as the “Best Vegetarian Cookbook in the World” at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.
I had to buy a copy of his latest book, ‘for the love of food’ which is a very accessible book for people with a wide range cooking levels. Stay tuned for some of my home cooking.
I’d spent a few days on Salt Spring for the fantastic and tasty Sip and Savour Salt Spring event, which is full of great food, community building, and sharing, and many great dinners around the Island. It was good timing as I was able to extend my stay for Chefs Across the Water.
Whether you fly in (Salt Spring Air) or are on the island, Hastings House will come pick you up in their courtesy van and shuttle you to the idyllic property. I usually stay in what they call The Barn, which I adore as I can walk right out onto the onsite veggie and flower gardens, but this visit I was checked into The Hillside Suites with gorgeous views over the harbour. Which ever suite you choose, you’ll find uber comfy beds, antique furnishings and all around comfort and style.
At dinner I was seated next to food writer Don Genova and his lovely wife Ramona Montagnes and broadcaster/actor Terry David Mulligan and his well-mannered and adorable granddaughter; good dining comparisons indeed.
The Carrot, Feta & Almond Terrine, Sesame Crispbread, Spiced Cucumber Salsa, Fennel Puree was first up. Rich, meaty (strange word for veggie food I know) and absolutely gorgeous to look at; I am requesting this recipe for certain.
Paired with Road 13 Sparkling Chenin Blanc
Second course – Cardamom Honey Aubergine, Baba Ganoush, Fresh Sheep’s Cheese, Beluga Lentils, Hazelnut Dukkah, Orange and Sultana Pickles; dense eggplant accented with the perfect seasoning
Paired wtih Salt Spring Vineyard Aromata
Kale Tortelli Yellow Pepper Broth, Balsamic Tomatoes,Citrus Lima Bean Crush, Dried olives were perfectly formed and ideally cooked with a intensely flavoured broth.
Paired with Garry Oaks Pinot Noir
Cider Braised Celeriac, Buttermilk Cauliflower, Chanterelles, Beetroot-Pecan Crunch, Parsley Oil – the perfect combination of textures. One can never get enough chanterelles.
Paired with Burrowing Owl Athene
Chef Cotter’s wife and her friends from Vancouver
Hastings House Chef Marcel Kauer alongside Chef Denis Cotter
Cotter and the chef’s assistants
Dessert – Apple Confit, Lavender Meringue – a perfect ending to this stellar meal.
Paired with Mistaken Identity Charmela
In the morning breakfast is included and could be as simple as granola, amore hearty one with bacon, eggs and toast or one of their tasty specialities such as French toast with Salt Spring Island berry syrup.
So gorgeous here any time of the year, but the crisp fall air and the colours of the leaves and fields as they just start to turn are simply stunning. http://hastingshouse.com/
Winter rates range from $206 for suites to $795 for cottages.
**My accomodation and meal were generously provided by Hastings House
