Carmenère makes its way from France to Chile and the Okanagan Valley
On November 24th, wine lovers around the world will celebrate Carmenère Day. This often misunderstood grape once considered extinct in its native France, has found an ideal home and a renewed reputation in Chile and, more recently, in British Columbia’s Southern Okanagan Valley.
A Bordeaux Legacy
Carmenère, a red wine grape variety, originated in the Bordeaux region of France. It was once a key component of classic Bordeaux blends, contributing its distinctive flavours of red and black fruit, herbs, and a unique pepperiness. However, due to its late ripening and susceptibility to phylloxera, a devastating vine louse that gutted vineyards of Europe from 1855 to 1890, Carmenère nearly disappeared by the early 20th century.
A Chilean Renaissance
Ironically, Carmenère established new roots in Chile somewhat by mistake. In the mid-19th century, French winemakers brought cuttings of various Bordeaux varieties to Chile, including Carmenère. However, due to misidentification, Chilean winemakers believed they were planting Merlot. It wasn’t until 1994 that DNA analysis revealed the true identity of these vines was Carmenère.
Chile’s unique climate and terroir proved to be ideal for Carmenère. The long, warm days and cool nights allowed the grapes to ripen slowly, developing complex flavours and aromas. Chilean Carmenère wines are known for their deep colour, soft tannins, and distinctive spicy, herbaceous notes.
A Rising Star in BC
In recent years, winemakers in The South Okanagan have begun experimenting with Carmenère, and the results have been impressive. The region’s warm, dry climate and well-draining soils provide the perfect conditions for this late-ripening grape.
Lariana Cellars and Black Hills Estate Winery are notable producers who have embraced Carmenère. Their wines showcase the grape’s versatility and potential to produce exceptionally flavourful wines in BC.
Lariana’s Carmenère offers a rich, full-bodied experience with flavours of dark cherry, plum, and a hint of spice. With tiny production, you can imagine this is sold out. $50. 14.9% abv. 221 cases. A style that is available online is red blend Twenty-One, which offers a glimpse of Carmenere’s blending prowess.
Black Hills Carmenère, on the other hand, is a more elegant expression of the grape, with notes of red berries, tobacco, and a subtle herbaceousness. $60. 13% abv.
Why Carmenère is a Rising Star
Several factors contribute to Carmenère’s growing popularity in BC:
- Unique Flavor Profile: Carmenère offers a distinct flavour profile that differentiates it from other red wine grapes. Its spicy, herbaceous notes and soft tannins add complexity and intrigue to wines.
- Food Pairing Versatility: Carmenère’s bold flavours pair well with a wide range of dishes, from grilled meats and roasted vegetables to spicy curries and hearty stews.
- Aging Potential: While Carmenère can be enjoyed young, it also has the potential to age gracefully, developing complexity and nuance over time.
- Market Demand: As consumers become more adventurous and seek out unique and distinctive wines, Carmenère is gaining popularity and recognition.
While Carmenère gains attention in BC, it is unlikely to become the region’s signature grape. Wine lovers who want to secure bottles will likely have to join wine clubs as the volume is tiny and the style is fantastic. Wine lovers, keep an eye on Carmenère wines being produced in the South Okanagan, and if all else fails, Chile has plenty to tide you over.
