Anna Olson is now on her seventh cookbook, Back to Baking – 200 Timeless Recipes to Bake, Share, and Enjoy.  Last Saturday she joined Edible Canada at The Market, at their bistro to demo recipes from this cookbook and others.

The team from Edible Canada, Chef Tom Lee, Sous Chef Jack Lin and the kitchen crew replicated her dishes for what was a full house.  From fiddleheads, gnocchi and halibut to cookies and cupcakes, guests watched her whip up the recipes and dined communal style with BC Wines to pair.

I’ve included her recipes and my photos of the evening for your viewing and cooking pleasure.  Hope this inspires some time in the kitchen.

There’s more Guest Chefs this summer at Edible Canada – click here to register.  And yes, I will be back.

First course was a spring-inspired fiddlehead and radiccio salad.  Fiddleheads are in season only briefly, but if you blanch them you can freeze a few to last through the year.  Just be sure to always cook these little delicacies for about 10 minutes.  Great in a stir-fry, omelette or quiche as well.  Olson also recommends artichokes or snap peas if you can’t find fiddleheads.

Fiddlehead Salad with Pickled Red Onions & Maple Toasted Pecans

Serves 6

A magical combination of varied colors and textures builds a salad that reaches new heights of complexity without being complicated. The three main elements that create such harmony are all delectable and versatile on their own.

Pickled Red Onions

Makes about 4 cups (1 l)

4 cups sliced red onions 1 L

1/3 cup sugar 80 mL

1/3 cup honey 80 mL

1 cup dry white wine 250 mL

¼ cup lemon juice 60 mL

1 tsp salt 5 mL

Simmer all the ingredients, uncovered, over medium heat until the onions are tender and the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. These can be refrigerated for up to 6 weeks.

Maple Toasted Pecans

Makes 2 cups (500 ml)

2 cups pecan halves 500 mL

3 Tbsp pure maple syrup 45 mL

1 tsp ground black pepper 5 mL

Preheat the oven to 350°f (180°c). Line a baking tray with parchment paper.

Toss the pecans with the maple syrup and black pepper to coat. Spread the pecans on the prepared tray and bake them for 10 to 12 minutes, without stirring, until toasted. Let cool in the pan. As the maple syrup cools it will caramelize onto the pecans.

The pecans can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

Fiddlehead Salad Vinaigrette

3 Tbsp lemon juice 45 mL

1 Tbsp finely minced shallot 15 mL

½ tsp Dijon mustard 2 mL

1/3 cup grapeseed or canola oil 80 mL

2 Tbsp tepid water 30 mL

salt & pepper

1 Tbsp chopped chives 15 mL

Fiddleheads

3 cups fresh or frozen fiddleheads 750 mL

3 cups radicchio leaves (Treviso radicchio, 750 mL if available)

1 cup pickled red onions 250 mL

2/3 cup maple toasted pecans 160 mL

For the vinaigrette, whisk the lemon juice, shallot, and Dijon to blend. Gradually whisk in the oil until it’s incorporated, then whisk in the water. Season to taste and stir in the chives.

If using fresh fiddleheads, trim off the stem ends and soak them in water for 10 minutes. Wash thoroughly, rubbing gently between your fingers. Drain well.

Bring a pot of water to a boil and salt it generously. Blanch the fiddleheads until tender, about 5 minutes for fresh and 3 minutes for frozen (tasting is the best way to judge). Drain the fiddleheads and shock them in ice water to halt the cooking process. Drain and chill until ready to serve.

To assemble the salad, arrange the radicchio on a platter. Toss the fiddleheads with the vinaigrette and arrange on the platter. Spoon the pickled red onions overtop and sprinkle with the maple toasted pecans. Serve immediately.

Fresh Take

• A fiddlehead embodies all that is spring. Small and delicate, these curly fern shoots are mild and have an almost creamy taste similar to artichoke hearts. It’s worth noting that fiddleheads should only be eaten once cooked—blanching removes something called shikimic acid (long story short, an acid that is transformed and used in flu medications, but not meant to be consumed in its raw form).
• If you can’t find fiddleheads, don’t panic. You can use freshly cooked artichoke hearts or even blanched snap peas instead.
• Fiddleheads grow in damp forest beds and they take a bit of the forest with them when picked. If using fresh, take the time to soak and gently clean them. Frozen fiddleheads are already cleaned.
• The pickled red onions make a great condiment for burgers, grilled fish, or chicken, while the maple toasted pecans are a nice diversion on a cheese plate or even sprinkled on an apple tart or ice cream. Talk about versatile!

Second course was a gnocchi served atop a pepper coulis.  Make this coulis and serve with fish or chicken.  It’s a simple and flavourful way to dress up a dish.

Goat Cheese Gnocchi with Pepper Coulis

Serves 6

Potato gnocchi are filling and satisfying in winter, and fluffy ricotta gnocchi are pleasant in summer, so it follows that these gnocchi are the perfect dish to bridge the two extremes. Served in a bright, fresh-tasting sauce, this is truly a taste of spring.

Pepper Coulis

¼ cup olive oil 60 mL

1 cup diced onion 250 mL

2½ cups diced red bell pepper 625 mL

¾ cup dry white wine 185 mL

2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 sprigs

2 sprigs fresh oregano 2 sprigs

salt & pepper

Goat Cheese Gnocchi

4 oz fresh goat cheese, at room temperature 125 g

4 oz cream cheese, at room temperature 125 g

3 Tbsp finely chopped green onion 45 mL

2 Tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 30 mL

1 Tbsp finely grated lemon zest 15 mL

2 eggs, separated 2

1 cup all-purpose flour 250 mL

½ tsp salt 2 mL

For the pepper coulis, heat the oil in a saucepot over medium heat. Sauté the onion for 5 minutes, until translucent. Add the peppers and sauté for 3 minutes more. Add the wine and herbs and simmer, covered, until the peppers are tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and purée. Strain, season, and set aside.

For the gnocchi, beat the goat cheese and cream cheese until smooth. Stir in the green onion, parsley, lemon zest, and egg yolks until smooth. Fold in the flour. Whip the egg whites with the salt to soft peaks and fold into the goat cheese mixture in 2 additions.

Bring 16 cups (4 L) water to a boil and salt generously. Cut the dough in half. Roll out 1 piece into a log shape about ¾-inch (2 cm) in diameter and cut it into ½-inch (1 cm) pieces. Place on a floured tray and repeat with the second piece of dough. Drop the gnocchi into the water in 2 batches and simmer until they float, about 3 minutes. Gently remove with a slotted spoon. To serve, heat the coulis and spoon it into a flat-bottomed bowl. Gently place gnocchi on top.

Fresh Take

• Regardless of where you live, early to late spring is peak season for hothouse produce. Buying local hothouse peppers, tomatoes, and cukes is a perfect way to shop locally and enjoy great-tasting produce after a long winter.
• When handling and rolling out the gnocchi dough, feel free to generously flour your work surface and hands—these gnocchi will still remain soft and fluffy. The dough is delicate but not fragile, moist but not too sticky either. Once you cook them and taste your first one, you’ll see what I mean!
• This pepper sauce is simple and bright. If you don’t want to use wine, simply substitute the same measure of water plus 1 Tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice in its place.

Halibut is another seasonal product I always look forward to.  Olson suggests the asparagus with rhubarb hollandaise to pair.  I would cut out some of the sugar myself in this recipe, but adjust according to your taste.

Asparagus with Rhubarb Hollandaise

Serves 6

I have a weakness for a good hollandaise, especially when it’s served with asparagus in season. At the same time, rhubarb comes into its own, and its fruity acidity replaces a traditional wine or vinegar base for this warm, buttery sauce.

2 lb fresh asparagus 1 kg

Rhubarb Hollandaise

1¼ cups finely diced fresh or frozen rhubarb 310 mL

1/3 cup sugar 80 mL

2 sprigs fresh tarragon 2 sprigs

2 large egg yolks 2

3 Tbsp lemon juice 45 mL

½ cup melted butter 125 mL

salt & pepper

To Finish

butter, for sauté pan

chopped chives, for garnish

Bring a pot of water to a boil and salt generously. Trim the asparagus and blanch, uncovered, until tender (check by tasting as the time will vary depending on its thickness). Once tender, drain then shock the asparagus in a bowl with ice and water to halt the cooking process. Strain and chill the asparagus until ready to serve.

For the hollandaise, stir the rhubarb, sugar, and tarragon sprigs in a pot over medium heat. Simmer until the rhubarb is just tender, about 10 minutes. Remove the tarragon and keep the rhubarb warm (but not hot).

Whisk the egg yolks and lemon juice in a bowl over a pot of gently simmering water (making sure the bowl’s not touching) until the yolks hold a ribbon when the whisk is lifted. Whisk in the rhubarb mixture to warm slightly. Remove the bowl from the heat and gradually whisk in the melted butter (try to avoid adding any white solids that have settled at the bottom of the butter). Season to taste and keep warm (hollandaise should be prepared as close to serving as possible).

To heat the asparagus, simply warm it in a sauté pan over medium-low heat with butter and season lightly. Place the warm asparagus on a platter and spoon hollandaise overtop. Garnish with chives and serve immediately.

Fresh Take

• If blanching asparagus in boiling water (versus steaming), it’s important to boil it uncovered so that it retains its bright green color. And by shocking it with ice water, you halt the cooking and the green color will set, even when reheated.
• The principle behind a hollandaise is to gently cook the egg yolks so that they don’t scramble. The acidity in the lemon juice helps prevent curdling while the yolks hit their appropriate temperature. To be certain, you can always use a thermometer to check that the mixture reaches 160°f (71°c).
• Michael turned me onto this delightful springtime combination of rhubarb and asparagus. This dish used to be on the menu at Inn on the Twenty, a wine-country restaurant in the Niagara, when we worked there together. See, it’s okay to take work home with you sometimes!

Mijune Pak, aka Follow Me Foodie, joined the dinner crowd.

Anna Olson with Chef Tom Lee and Chef Jack Lin of Edible Canada

Earl Grey Chiffon cake with Maple Meringue Frosting was served up for dessert.  They served these as cupcakes, but making the whole cake would be a bit less work when it comes to icing.

Earl Grey Chiffon Cake With Maple Meringue Frosting

• Makes one 10-inch (25 cm) tube cake | Serves 16 to 20 •

This is a personal favourite. Infused Earl Grey tea lends a subtly fragrant citrus note to the chiffon, and the meringue frosting sweetened with maple syrup really adds something special.

Cake:

2 tea bags Earl Grey

3/4 cup (185 mL) boiling water

8 egg whites, at room temperature

1/2 tsp (2 mL) cream of tartar

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) sugar

2 1/4 cups (560 mL) cake and pastry flour

2 1/2 tsp (12 mL) baking powder

1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt

1/2 cup (125 mL) vegetable oil

5 egg yolks

1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 tsp (5 mL) finely grated lemon zest

3 oz (90 g) milk chocolate, chopped and melted

1 recipe Maple Meringue Frosting (see below)

Preheat the oven to 325°f (160°c).

Steep the tea bags in the boiling water until the water cools to room temperature. Without squeezing out excess liquid, remove the bags, then top up the water to its original 3/4 cup (185 mL) measure.

Whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar until foamy, then add 1/4 cup (60 mL) of the sugar and continue whipping until the whites hold a medium peak. Set aside.

Sift the flour, the remaining 11/4 cups (310 mL) of the sugar, the baking powder, and salt into a large bowl or into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment. Add the cooled tea, oil, egg yolks, vanilla, and lemon zest. Whip this mixture on high until it is thick, about 4 minutes. Add the melted milk chocolate and whip it on low speed until blended. Fold in half of the whipped egg whites by hand until they are incorporated, then fold in the remaining whites (the batter will be quite fluid). Pour this into a 10-inch (25 cm), ungreased tube pan.

Bake the cake for 50 to 55 minutes, until the top of the cake springs back when gently pressed. Invert the cake pan onto a cooling rack and cool the cake upside down in its pan. To extract the cake, run a spatula or knife around the outside edge of the cake, then tap the cake out onto a plate.

Use a spatula to spread the maple meringue over the entire surface of the cake (use a small spatula or butter knife to frost the cake inside the centre hole). Store the cake at room temperature until ready to serve and cover the interior cake with plastic wrap only once cut. The cake will keep for up to 3 days.

Maple Meringue Frosting

• Makes about 2½ cups (625 mL) •

dairy-free gluten-free

This frosting recipe can be interchanged with Seven-Minute Frosting (page 150), wherever you wish to add a hint of caramel from the maple syrup. Even though this recipe uses maple syrup, the frosting comes up a bright white colour.

2 egg whites, at room temperature

1/2 tsp (2 mL) cream of tartar

2 Tbsp (30 mL) sugar

3/4 cup (185 mL) pure maple syrup

1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

Whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar until foamy, then add the sugar and whip the whites just to a soft peak.

Bring the maple syrup to a boil and cook uncovered and without stirring until it reaches a temperature of 242°f (117°c) on a candy thermometer. While beating on medium speed, carefully pour the maple syrup into the meringue by pouring it down the side of the bowl (this will help prevent splashing of hot syrup) and continue whipping until the mixture has cooled but is not quite room temperature, about 3 minutes. Stir in the vanilla. This frosting should be used immediately after making.

 Here is the dish in cake form from the book.

A platter of cookies finalized the deal, but I was far too full to indulge.  Now why didn’t I pack some of these to go though?

Apricot Walnut Thumbprint Cookies

• Makes about 3 dozen cookies •

My mom used to make thumbprint cookies dipped in walnut crumbs every Christmas, and these remind me very much of my childhood.

1 cup (250 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/2 cup (125 mL) packed light brown sugar

1 egg, separated

2 tsp (10 mL) finely grated orange zest

1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt

3/4 cup (185 mL) walnut crumbs (finely chopped walnut pieces)

1⁄3 cup (80 mL) apricot jam

Preheat the oven to 350°f (175°c) and line 2 baking trays with parchment paper.

By hand, with electric beaters, or using a standup mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and brown sugar until smooth. Beat in the egg yolk, zest, and vanilla.

Add the flour and salt, and mix until evenly blended. Spoon out tablespoonfuls of the dough and shape each into a ball. Whisk the remaining egg white in a small bowl. Dip each cookie into the egg white and then roll completely in the walnut crumbs. Place the cookies on the prepared trays, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) between them. Once all the cookies are on the trays, use the knuckle of your index finger to make an impression in the centre of each (they may be called thumbprint cookies, but it’s easier to use your knuckle).

Bake the cookies for about 15 minutes, until the walnut crumbs and the bottoms of the cookies are lightly browned.

While still warm, press the centre of the cookies down again to make more room for the jam, stir the jam to soften, then spoon a little into each cookie. Let the cookies air-dry for about 2 hours, then store. The cookies will keep in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Raspberry, Lemon, And White Chocolate Rugelach

• Makes 16 large cookies •

Cream cheese is the secret to a tasty and flaky rugelach cookie. Because the pastry is just barely sweetened, it balances the sweetness of the jam and white chocolate.

3/4 cup (185 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/2 pkg (4 oz/125 g) cream cheese, at room temperature

2 tsp (10 mL) finely grated lemon zest

1 Tbsp (15 mL) sugar, plus extra for sprinkling

2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt

2⁄3 cup (160 mL) raspberry jam

2 oz (60 g) white chocolate, cut in chunks, or 1/2 cup (125 mL) white chocolate chips

For Brushing:

1 egg white

Beat the butter and cream cheese until smooth. Beat in 2 tsp (10 mL) of the lemon zest and the sugar.

Add the flour and salt, and stir until the dough evenly comes together.

Shape the dough into 2 discs, wrap each in plastic wrap, and chill for at least an hour.

Preheat the oven to 350°f (175°c) and line a baking tray with parchment paper.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the first disc of dough into a circle about 12 inches (30 cm) across and just shy of 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Trim away the rough edges.

Stir the raspberry jam to soften it, then stir in the remaining 1 tsp (5 mL) of lemon zest. Spread half of the jam over the surface of the dough, right to the edges. Sprinkle half of the white chocolate over the jam.

Cut the dough into 8 wedges, and roll up each cookie from the large edge to its point, very much like a croissant, and place the cookies 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart on the baking tray. Repeat steps 6 and 7 with the remaining disc of dough.

Whisk the egg white until it is very foamy and brush each cookie with it. Sprinkle the cookies generously with sugar.

Bake the rugelach for 20 to 25 minutes, until they are an even golden colour. Let the cookies cool on the tray before removing to store. The cookies will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

Egg-free variation

To make these cookies egg-free, simply brush the tops of the rolled cookies with milk in place of the egg white.

Note from Anna’s kitchen

To make smaller cookies, shape the dough into 4 discs instead of 2 and follow the same method. You will get 32 smaller cookies that bake in 16 to 20 minutes.

Pecan Lace Cookies

• Makes about 2 dozen large cookies •

Egg-free

These cookies are very close in style to Florentine cookies, and can be shaped or rolled while warm.

3/4 cup (185 mL) sugar

1/2 cup (125 mL) unsalted butter

1⁄3 cup (80 mL) whipping cream

2 Tbsp (30 mL) honey

1 cup (250 mL) rolled oats

1 cup (250 mL) chopped pecans (chopped to the size of oats)

1/2 cup (125 mL) coarsely chopped dried cranberries

Preheat the oven to 350°f (175°c) and line 3 baking trays with parchment paper.

Place the sugar, butter, cream, and honey in a saucepot, and bring to a boil, stirring often. Once a boil is reached, stop stirring and cook the mixture, occasionally brushing down the sides of the pot with water, until it reaches 239°f (115°c) on a candy thermometer. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the oats, pecans, and cranberries.

Dip a teaspoon into water and use it to drop teaspoonfuls of batter onto the trays, being certain to leave 4 inches (10 cm) between them, as the cookies spread a great deal as they bake (you will likely fit only 8 cookies per tray). With wet fingers, gently press the cookies to flatten them a little, then bake them for 8 to 10 minutes, until they are a rich golden brown. See the note below to shape the cookies, or completely cool the cookies on the trays before removing. The cookies will keep for up to 3 days in an airtight container.

Note from Anna’s kitchen

To shape lace cookies, let them cool for about 2 minutes once they are out of the oven. Then lift the cookies with a spatula and place them on a rolling pin to create a curl, or on the underside of a muffin tin cup to create a dish that can hold ice cream, or roll them up into a cigarette-like cylinder to be a garnish for a custard or cake. This cookie batter can be made ahead and chilled for up to a week before baking, or it can be frozen for up to 3 months and thawed in the refrigerator before baking.

I interviewed Anna late last year when she came to town to Launch Back To Baking, the cookbook where the dessert and cookies are sourced from.  The other courses are from Fresh With Anna Olson.

NOTE – Recipes republished with permission from White Cap Books and Anna Olson.

http://www.annaolson.ca/