Some of the best wines in the world are produced in the region that is increasingly being called Cascadia – the corridor that includes Oregon, Washington and British Columbia . These wines are for the most part produced by small-lot wineries – passionate growers and artistic winemakers who know the right grapes to grow in the region’s numerous micro-climates and how best to bring out their complex flavours.
Chef Connor Butler is, to put it frankly, a wine nut. He loves the wines of this region and is enthusiastic about promoting them in his intimate south Granville restaurant. This June, he is introducing the first of his Wine Forward Prix Fixe Dinners. Unlike most table d’hôte menus that offer an optional wine pairing matched to the food, Chef Butler has reversed the process. It is the special wines that will take centre stage with food matched to them.
For $45 diners are offered a flight of six half glasses of wine – two each course. The food pairing is $35. This affords maximum flexibility – diners can order the flight of wines separately and enjoy it with items from the restaurant’s regular menu (at regular prices), or have the ‘food flight’ without the wines or for the optimum experience, they can enjoy both together for a total of $70 (a saving of $10).
For this dinner, Chef Butler has dug deep into his wine cellar and pulled out some favourite goodies.
He starts with King’s Estate Pinot Gris ’06. This winery is known for its organic and sustainable practices. What makes this wine so special? According to Chef Butler “it’s those sunny hills cooled by Pacific river fogs of course! Exotic citrus and honeydew on the nose with oranges, peaches, Granny Smith, with a hard mineral edge in the mouth.” The second white wine is Sokol Blossur’s Evolution #11 (also ’06). This is a “cunning and fun blend” of Semillon, pinot gris, chardonnay and “a bunch of early-ripening Rieslings.” It features a light floral nose with hints of wildflower honey, mild citrus and sweet apple in the mouth. The food pairing for the first course is a Spring Onion and Pemberton Potato Tart with Qualicum Fromage Frais.
For the second course we visit Washington State. According to Chef Butler “it’s the Columbia River, and the irrigation that flows from it, that fuels the sun-drenched vineyards in the south eastern portion of the state and allows the ripe fruit and massive, yet accessible structure that is such a common trait in Washington wines.” For this dinner he has chosen two 2005 vintages. Skookum Red ’05, a blended red with simple black fruit and yeast on the nose; super soft tannins and elegant cassis with a hint of raspberry in the mouth. L’Ecole No. 41 , Merlot ’05 is the second red – a “Wow red” according to Chef Butler with tons of spice on the nose and black cherry, black plum and cocoa in the mouth. “Massive with a complex structure.” These are paired with Langley Duck Breast, Hertel’s Bacon and Crunchy Peas, Spatzle, Jus and Pea Purée.
The pairing closes on a sweet note with two ‘beauties’ from BC – Gehringer Late Harvest Cabernet Franc ’06 and Quails Gate Optima ’06. Of his choice from BC, Chef Butler comments “there’s no doubt that fantastic table wines can be made in British Columbia’s wine regions, but it is our dessert-style wines that consistently turn heads and garner genuine acclaim from the world’s best. That big lake helps mediate the vineyards in their seasonally swaying temperature extremes.” To complement this course Chef Butler has paired it with Poached White Rock Rhubarb, Cowichan Spelt ‘Doughnut,’ Cream, Strawberry Ice.
Most of us can’t afford the time, or the expense, to take an extended tour of Cascadia’s wineries. Restaurant Connor Butler’s inaugural Wine Forward Dinner allows us to explore this vast region, to discover unknown treasures and visit some well-known friends all in one evening at a modest price. As an added bonus we guarantee no border line-ups or exchange rate charges!
To learn more about Restaurant Connor Butler, view menus or make reservations, please visit www.connorbutler.com
2145 Granville Street, Vancouver BC V3H 3E9 604.734.2145 www.connorbutler.com
