It doesn’t take a detective like the famous Mr. Holmes to know that late autumn is the peak of wild game season. From England to New England, British Columbia to Brittany, hunters (‘chasseur’ en français) respond to the ancient instinct to go out and literally ‘bring home the bacon’ (or the chop, steak or roast for that matter). In France, chasseur are particularly ubiquitous at this time of year; the countryside ringing with the sound of shot guns and hunting dogs. Game’s distinctive taste and texture lends itself well to slow roasting and braising. It marries well with rich wine-based sauces and sweet additions such as dried fruit. It’s fall food – big flavours to sate hearty appetites.
At Bistro Pastis, owner John Blakeley has designed a Wild Game Menu in homage to the chasseur of his childhood. Priced at $55 for three courses, it will be available from November 1st – 30th.
Start with a choice of paper-thin slices of Caribou Carpaccio (crispy capers, shaved Parmesan and horseradish aioli) or Consommé de Volaillie with Duck Confit Dumpling or a robust Game and Prune Terrine. All modern interpretations of standard bistro fare.
The choices for mains become even more difficult. Do you choose the Rabbit Trio (saddle roulade, confit leg and red wine-braised leg) or a delicate Oven Roasted Squab (with traditional sautéed fingerling potatoes, braised baby carrots and fennel, pan jus). Just when you think you’ve settled on one, you discover a third choice – Bison Osso Bucco complete with fettuccine and sweet potato/squash ragoût. Oh my, now what do you do? Why share some of your choice with your dining companions so that you all get to taste.
Two sumptuous desserts close off the meal – Brioche Bread Pudding with wild berry compote, Sauce Anglaise and Gâteau Basque with Vanilla Ice Cream – a traditional cake from France’s Southwest region in the foothills of the Pyrenees. The ‘cake’ is more like a tart with a sablé (shortbread) crust encasing a silky pastry cream filling.
At Bistro Pastis good food is no mystery. Treat yourself, your family and friends to an evening sitting by Pastis’ cosy fireplace while indulging in the Wild Game Menu.
Reservations are highly recommended and can be made either at www.bistropastis.com or by calling 604-731-5020.
Bistro Pastis – the closest you can get to France without a passport and a plane ticket.
