THE SMOKING DOG BISTRO A NEW CHEF TEACHES AN OLD DOG A FEW NEW TRICKS
The Smoking Dog Bistro proprietors’ Jean Séguin and Judith Andrews are delighted to be welcoming back Chef Pascal Georges to the stoves at Kitsilano’s favourite neighbourhood bistro, marking a return to the classic, casual French bistro food the restaurant is renowned for.
Chef Georges, now in his early 40’s, was the Executive Chef for Jean-Claude Ramond when the restaurant opened over 15 years ago. He remained with Jean-Claude for 5 years and returned for another 2 years, taking The Smoking Dog through the transition when it was sold to Jean and Jude. Pascal and his family recently returned to Vancouver from France and Asia, where he worked at some of those region’s top hotels and restaurants.
The Menu
French Bistro food is classic – A simple formula of impeccable ingredients and simple yet meticulous preparation. Even classics however have to move with the times, Canadian beef’s superior flavour deserves lighter sauces and guests now expect to taste the fish, not the butter sauce. The Smoking Dog, like any true bistro, offers good value and has kept prices at a level where neighbourhood guests can drop in a few times a week, not only once or twice a year.
Returning classics on The Smoking Dog menu include the signature Mimosa Salad, butter lettuce, garnished with tomatoes, diced egg and parsley, dressed with a Dijon sauce; Salade Niçoise, large enough for a light main course, uses a true recipe from Nice with local albacore tuna, roasted bell peppers, olives, quail eggs, green beans, anchovies, baby vine tomatoes, mini eggplant and squash. The menu offers three classic soups – a French Onion soup is gratinéed with Gruyere’s milder cousin Swiss, on a browned crouton, Lobster Bisque is rich with lobster stock and the Tomato and Gin soup is made from fresh tomatoes, still with the classic dollop of crème fraîche, but with a vegetable stock to keep it lighter. Grilled quail returns, now served with a generous topping of lightly tempura vegetables and new to the menu is a Potato Tarte with Smoked Salmon and Tuna Tartar.
The Smoking Dog’s Pepper Steak, an 8 oz well-aged tenderloin served with French green beans and pommes puree, remains on the menu. Fresh halibut, roast duck, prawns, two pastas and a risotto round out the well priced $14 to $29 entrée menu.
In homage to true bistro food, and a nod to the original Jean-Claude menu, a small $15 menu offers Steak Frites, Roast Chicken Frites or Grilled Salmon Frites throughout the day and evening. Served as a simple meal with just pommes frites and sauce, sides of French green beans, market vegetables and salads can be added for an additional charge.
The lunch menu offers the same selection of appetizers and desserts, with lunch time favourites and smaller entrée’s. A quiche changes daily and the much loved Smoking Dog Bistro Burger, using hand chopped top sirloin, remains.
Desserts, all made in house, also include the classics with Crème Brûlée and Crème Caramel, Chocolate Fondant and Profiteroles. An Apple Tart Tatin, rustic and somewhat chunkier than its fine dining cousin, is served with vanilla gelato.
The wine list is value priced, matching the style set by the restaurant, offering many French selections as well as local & international wines.
The Address
Kitsilano is the entrance to Vancouver’s West Side. Located just one block off Burrard at 1889 West 1st Avenue, The Smoking Dog resides in a residential neighbourhood. It’s pretty and quiet, the beach a block away and it’s on a bike path. It has a 70 seat dining room, a dozen high top bar seats and a large patio, heated in winter, which offers up an extraordinary corner view of people-watching opportunities, especially on sunny afternoons and evenings. Locals walk but it’s well worth the drive across one of the bridges.
