‘Tis the season for all things wild and forest-like and that definitely includes mushrooms and game meats. Several restaurants around town are celebrating the bounty with ingredient-forward menus . At La Buca, Pied a Terre, The Sardine Can and The Abbey, the Wild Game and Mushroom Festival takes place October 16 to November 2 with three or four course prix fixe menus at the first two mentions and chalkboard specials at the latter two.

We checked out The Abbey ‘s offerings last week and had an excellent and memorable meal, perfect for a chilly night. The Abbey is a fairly new spot on West Pender in Crosstown, taking over the space that previously housed Wild Rice. Owned by Andrey Durbarch, Michel Durocher and Chris Stewart, The Abbey bills itself as strong on British pub food, and although it’s been a while since I’ve gastropubed in Britain, there is certainly a lot more here than I think you’d see at even the best of British pubs.

The room is welcoming, with dim lights and cozy nooks for privacy; there’s actually two private rooms for smaller groups that would be perfect for your next birthday party or a smaller office gathering. Lots of wood accents and well chosen artwork give the space a warm feel, one the beckons you to stay a while.

For the span of the game festival the chalkboard menu will vary, and the night that we were in the above was featured. For your sake I certainly hope that at least some of these dishes will be featured throughout the festival’s duration and beyond.

We started with an excellently balanced cocktail, The Abbott, named after a nearby street, that contained just the right amount of bitter, sweet and sour its glass. The wine list is excellent, owner Durocher has excellent relationships with Vancouver’s wine agents and has rare bottles. The servers, even in his absence, know exactly what works with each particular dish; don’t go it alone here, please be sure to solicit their expertise.

First up a mushroom consomme. Perfectly clear, with intense earthy flavour.

The frisee salad with the duck egg, rabbit croquettes and mushroom crouton was dressed with a tasty celeriac puree and the egg broke perfectly, smearing the dish in a bright yolk. Rich and decadent.

These delicate scallops where an excellent contrast to the rich wild boar bacon. The pea puree brought colour and flavour into play and some sherry vinaigrette bound the dish with its bright acidity.

Roasted foie gras has found its true home nestled into this grilled quail. The accompanying risotto made with rich stock was densely flavoured and accents of green onion brightened the dish.

This dish was magic. Sweet, tender veal cheeks, seared sweetbreads, hen of wood mushrooms, kale and butternut squash ravioli. The veal cheeks barely required chewing, the sweetbreads near perfect, perhaps just a tad overcooked, but I’d not enough to even think of sending back. I’d never let these out of my site and risk them not returning.

While we were ready to be rolled out of the restaurant there was some insistance from our server that we could not leave without trying the sticky toffee pudding. Thank goodness for her recommendation as it does happen to be one of my favourite sweet delights and this one was a fine example of why I can always make room for it.

This festival runs until November 2 so don’t delay and risk missing out on these amazing fall dishes.

Open daily for dinner from 5 p.m., with Happy Hour daily until 6:30 p.m., The Abbey is at 117 West Pender Street.
604-336-7100 or info@abbeyvan.com
www.abbeyvan.com