Uncorking a Bold Grape: Zinfandel’s Journey from California to British Columbia
Raise a glass, wine lovers! November 20th marks Zinfandel Day, a celebration of this red, robust, versatile grape variety. While California may be its traditional home, Zinfandel’s story takes on a local vibe with plantings in and around Oliver in the southern Okanagan Valley of British Columbia. BC Zinfandel is indeed alive and well!
California’s Zinfandel Legacy: A Story of Sunshine and Rich Flavors
Zinfandel found its Californian calling in the late 19th century. Recent DNA testing has revealed that it is identical to Croatian grapes Crljenak Kaštelanski and Tribidrag, (no, you don’t have to say it out loud) as well as Primitivo, traditionally grown in Apulia, Italy, where it was introduced in the 18th century. The state’s warm climate, particularly in regions like Lodi, Sonoma, and Napa, provides the long, sunny days and well-draining soils this grape variety craves. The result? Wines bursting with bold fruit flavours like blackberry, plum, and spice, often balanced by refreshing acidity and a warming finish.
Lodi: The “Zinfandel Capital of the World”
Lodi, east of San Francisco Bay, is a haven for Zinfandel. Ancient vines, some over a century old, produce intensely concentrated flavours. Lodi’s secret lies in its unique terroir: long, sunny days tempered by cooling coastal breezes and well-draining soils that encourage deep root growth. This combination gives rise to Zinfandel wines that are surprisingly delicate and nuanced, defying expectations of a hot climate region.
Beyond California: Zinfandel’s Unexpected Success in BC
Fast forward to the late 1990s, and Zinfandel finds a new home in the south Okanagan Valley of BC. While a cool-climate region compared to California, specific microclimates, particularly the Golden Mile Bench, offer ideal conditions for Zinfandel. Warm days, cool nights, and well-drained, gravelly soils allow the Zin grapes to ripen fully while retaining their acidity.
Three BC Wineries Continuing the Zinfandel Legacy
BC’s Zinfandel story is mainly due to these passionate winemakers:
Covert Farms Family Estate: This 650-acre regenerative farm produces a stunning Zinfandel from winemaker Gene Covert. It showcases a refined California heritage style, highlighting Gene’s dedication to sustainable practices in the Okanagan Valley. With a vertical of three vintages, 2018, 2019, and 2020, the Grand Reserve Zinfandel flight is available for $162, making Covert Farms Zinfandel a must-try. Visit the Covert Farms website for the offer.
Rust Wine: Nestled on the Golden Mile Bench, Rust Wine Co. and winemaker Ryan De Witte have crafted a remarkable Zinfandel. The 2022 Zinfandel South Rock, grown on Rust’s historic home vineyard, is a testament to the unique terroir of the Golden Mile. Bursting with power, flavour, and freshness, this wine showcases the art of winemaking skill—$ 33 per bottle at Save-On-Foods. Sadly, the 2023 vintage will be Rust’s last Zinfandel, as the vines succumbed to a devastating winter freeze in 2024.
Black Sage Vineyard: Located on the hot, arid Sonoran Desert fringe, Black Sage winemaker Jason James defies expectations with this classic style of Zinfandel. It’s ripe, luscious and 15.2% abv, a testament to the ripeness achieved in Oliver’s sun-soaked terroir. At $32.99, it’s a great price, too. Shop Great Estates online and order a bottle.
Celebrating Zinfandel Day: A Toast to Historic Roots and Modern Styles
This Zinfandel Day, raise a glass to BC’s Zinfandel pioneers. With limited stocks, these wines offer a unique opportunity to taste winemaking history. So, seek out these rare bottles, savour the bold flavours, and celebrate the legacy of BC Zinfandel.
SHOP
Covert Farms: https://www.covertfarms.ca/product/2019-grand-reserve-zinfandel-duplicate
Rust Vineyards: https://shop.rustwine.com/product/2021-Zinfandel
Black Sage Zinfandel: https://www.greatestatesokanagan.com/product/Black-Sage-Vineyard-Zinfandel